2010-03-12
Today we decided to be honest-to-goodness tourists and visit Cerro San Cristobal. It is a small mountain which stands in the north-east corner of the city, just at the top barrio Bellavista (which gets is “beautiful view” name from the cerro’s capacity to deliver it).
We journeyd out of Nunoa earlyish, passing a few signs of the damage caused by the recent quakes, including a few encampments of displaced residents. People fearing for the safety of their residences, or those forced out of their homes and hosted by friends and relatives, have setup small communities of tents in backyards and parks in this residential neighbourhood.
Getting off at my favorite subway station, Baquedano, we crossed the rio Mapocho into barrio Bellavista to make our way to the mountain. But what’s the first thing a good tourist should do? Inject some plata into the local economy, of course. So we stopped at a small market of handicraft shops, to checkout the wares.
The merchant all have their own little box, which can be locked down when closed and is a unique work of art in its own right. They are organized along decorated paths, which are as twisty as the roads of Santiago, and offer a mix of handicrafts, jewelery (in large parts ornamented with, or crafted out of, lapis lazuli, the beautiful azure stone which is a local specialty) , musical instruments and trinkets of all types. If you are into penguins, condors, or the giant heads of easter island, you are in for a treat. Some of it is nice and unique, some is mass produced handcraft and some is plastic crap. Almost all of it is very inexpensive.
With a short walk, we cut through the patios of Pio Nono and headed straight to the Cerro San Cristobal. A few shops adorn the base of the mountain, selling snacks or junk that says “I’m a tourist, take me for a ride”.
The real attraction here is the Funicular, a vehicle that’s pulled up the side of the mountain on tracks at a somewhat vertigionous 45 degree angle at about 100 meters per minute (for a total run of around 450 meters). There are two of these little boxes in operation simultaneously, in oposite directions, that cross paths half way up and leave every fifteen minutes. In each of the tilted vehicles, there are five platforms arranged in a stair-like fashion and each can carry about eight people comfortably, though the top and bottom platforms are obviously the most popular.
We rode up and disembarked at the first stop, a little passed the halfway mark: the Zoo! Yes, there’s a zoo in Santiago, and they built it on the flank of a mountain overlooking the city. That’s cool. It is quiet, up there, and it’s quite a panorama for the animals, be it permanent resident or paying customer.
The funicular stop, and zoo entrance, are at what is almost the highest point of the zoo, which is arranged as a series of terasses similar to the aboriginal plantations of old in the Andes. As you wind down the mountain, you can gawk at both local (like the rabbit-horse-pig thing who’s name I’ve forgotten and the Condor, the national bird) and imported (we loved the white tiger family, and there are polar bears when it isn’t too hot).
After a good time with all the animals, and an engrossing conversation with a parrot, we walked back to the base of San Cristobal to take the contraption back up, this time, all the way to the top.
If it weren’t for the smog, which sadly masks the Andes from the city, the view would be heartstopping. Still, it is a stricking panorama and worth the trip.
At the highest point, there is some type of amphitheater which is used as a church. With a setting like that, I might be inspired too. Ok, no. But still, it is an impressive place with soft religious music and signs asking visitors to keep it down.
Overlooking the city is a large white statue of some lady. There were a number of people sitting silently around the base, facing the city and either being uplifted by divine power or just chilling, I couldn’t tell which.
There’s nothing to be worried about, though, as it appears the lady is coin-operated.
Under the statue is a type of sanctuary, where people burn candles and leave messages related to fallen loved ones. There are puddles and drips of wax covering everything, the scent of paraffin in the air, and it’s all rather sad.
We shook of the gloom and hopped on the funicular back down, glad to get back to the living. It was early evening on a Friday night in Bellavista. The sun was setting and the place was getting packed, revellers getting the party started.
It was enjoyable, but we were burned out and chose to get a little rest . The next day would be fun: a room was waiting for us in la casa roja, we’d be right in the middle of barrio Brasil just in time for Saturday night!
